Of the Mountains of Chindul and Mache
Northern Manabi and Southern Esmeraldas Provinces, Southern Ecuador.by
Andrew Mudd
Institute of Archeology, London.
(1991)
Contents
- Introduction
- Geographical Background
- Background Information
- Biological Importance of Region
- Previous Surveys
- Current Status of Forest
- Maps (Not Included in web site)
- Air Photographs (Not Included in web site)
- Summary of Itinery
- Results
- Vegetation and Wildlife
- Conclusions
- Recommendations
Introduction
Equafor note - this report, previously unpublished, precedes the work of Conservation International which led to the establishment of the Bilsa Biological Station and, inderectly, to the setting up of Equafor.Scope of Report
This report is based on a reconnaissance investigation in the region of the montanas de chindul and the montanas de mache in the extreme north of the province of Manabi and the south of the province of Esmeraldas, in coastal Ecuador. This region, which covers about 600 sq. km. inland from the Cojimies Estuary, appears to contain one of the last relatively extensive tracts of tropical humid forest in the coastal hills of Ecuador.The purpose of the investigation was to obtain a general idea of the amount of forest still remaining in the area, to evaluate the kinds of threats posed to its survival, and to estimate the rate of its destruction. Some attempt was also made to characterize the flora and fauna of the region, but any technical statements in this regard lie beyond the competence of the author. Similarly, any definitive recommendations concerning strategies for forest management and conservation are beyond the scope of this report, although some comments on this subject are offered.
It is hoped that this reconnaissance will form the basis of a firmly grounded, detailed, specialist study of this region in the near future. It is also hoped that, by bringing this subject to the attention of interested parties, serious consideration can be given to priorities for agro-forestal development and conservation in this poorly known region.
Method of Survey
The survey was made using local transport (hired mule/horses), and local guides and informants. It is based upon observation, and on questioning local people. The method was rather ad hoc, but the absence of roads in the area, and the lack of adequate maps made this method the only feasible one. The lack of prior knowledge of the region, including the names of rivers and settlements imparted a certain degree of randomness to the itinerary. The limitations of areal coverage are acknowledged, but seem inherent in the survey method. The unavailability of transport and accomodation at certain points made a more thorough coverage impossible.What was achieved owes everything to the local people, who, without advance warning were willing to offer hospitality to a stranger. To them, most thanks is due.
The trip was made with an award from the Convocation Trust of the University of London, whose generosity is acknowledged.
The field investigation was made between the 8th and 21st of August 1991.
Geographical Background
General
The mountains of Mache and Chindul are the names given to the high and rugged hills of northern Manabi and southern Esmeraldas provinces. On most maps of this area the Rio Dogola divides the two ranges. Chindul to the south in Manabi and Mache to the north in Esmeraldas, but not all maps agree on where the boundary lies.Reaching heights in excess of 600m (although much of the area is yet to be mapped), they are among the highest hills in the coastal region. They are relatively inaccessible and very rugged, factors which have helped to make this one of the last areas to be colonized in the coastal range. The fact that it is at the border of two provinces and far from centres of population and civil administration, has undoubtably been a factor in this regard.
Vegetation
The natural vegetation is tropical humid forest. Although the region experiences a relatively dry season between June and December, the hills are cloud covered all year round and it rains at all times of the year. For this reason the forest can generally be classified as humid, rather than sub-humid (or moist), as it is in the lower ground to the east and west. However, variations certainly exist within the region. Canada Cruz (El mapa bioclimatica del Ecuador) identifies three ecological zones based on altitude.It rained on most days during the field investigation, but was said to be wetter than usual for the time of year.
Unlike many parts of the Amazon forest, the soils of the coastal hills are good for agriculture. Informants in the survey area claimed they could grow anything they wanted. The main impediments to agroculture seem to be excessively steep slopes and thin soils. It is also probable that in the highest cloud forest (above 600m) the climate does impose some limitations on the kind of crops which can be grown, or at least on their productivity.
Place Names
Although the names "Mache" and "Chindul" appear on the maps, the mountains are not know by those names locally, and indeed are not given any specific name. The use of the name "Mache", in particular, could lead to confusion since this was the name of one of the major rivers and, by extension, of the entire valley region. In addition, there was a second Rio Mache further to the east.Locally, places are known by the name of the nearest river. Dogola, for instance, can and does refer to any place near this long river. Locations were more specifically known by reference to a person who lived there.
Travel
Travel within the region is almost exclusively by horse or mule. It is possible to travel by foot if one is not carrying baggage, but otherwise even short journeys are arduous. The paths are very muddy and the terrain extremely difficult to negotiate.Roads are being ecxavated by machinery, and are passible to sturdy vehicles when the ground is dry. Their influence as yet is minimal as they are usually too muddy to use. In the south, two roads have beeen excavated by farmers to enable them to reach their farms.
In the north, a road is being cut from the village of La Y, Cube sector, along the main east-west watershed. It is intended to reach Muisne and has only reached the Dogola headwaters, so far (Equafor note - this is the road that runs through the Jatun Sacha Bilsa Reserve). It was started ten years ago, but progress has been slow because excavators can only gain access during a few months of the year.
Access to the region is also possible by motorized canoe as far as Dogolita on the Rio Dogolo. Trips are not made regularly, and the cost of hiring a canoe is extremely high.
Background Information
Biological Importance of Region
The area was chosen for investigation because it appears to be one of the last relatively intact tract of tropical humid forest in the coastal hill range. The centre for International Development and Environment (CIDE An assessment of Biological Diversity and Tropical Forests for Ecuador, 1989) estimate that, for the western lowlands of Ecuador, approximately 100,000 hectares of undisturbed forest remains outside of protected areas, most of it in this region.CIDE also report that the specific type of forest found there once covered 15% of western Ecuador, but alsi that less than 1% remain (about 90 sq km)
The following summary is taken from the CIDE report.
Despite its relatively small size, Ecuador is known to harbour large numbers of species of flora and fauna, making it comparable in this respect to the much larger countries of tropical South America, such as Peru, Colombia and Brazil. Western Ecuador, being geographically isolated, amd moreover broken into many small life zones by the nature of the terrain, is characterized by particularly large numbers of endemic species. Although detailed studies are few, there are estimated to be about 6300 species of vascular plants in western Ecuador, 20% of which are endemic. Furthermore, some of the species may be extremely localized...
Within Ecuador there are loci of much narrower endemism, especially on isolated ridgetops. Some of the patches of high local endemism may consisit of habitat islands no more than 0.5 to 10 sq km...
That such local endemism is typical of certain tropical forest types has only just been realized....
We suspect that much of the flora of Western Ecuador may operate on a different set of parameters than do the large expanses of relatively homogenous tropical zone habitats. Those include extremely rapid speciation, adaptation to small habitat patches and concomitant rapid extinction rates. Thus we would submit that conservation of even the tiny habitat fragments that remain in Western Ecuado might well reserve a substantial portion of the original complement of nearly 1500 species endemic to the area, despite the tremendous deforestation which has taken place. Any such effort must be undertaken very soon however, since many of the species will surely be lost if the few tiny plant patches that remain today are destroyed.
Previous Surveys
A report concerning the humid forests of western Ecuador has recently been prepared by Ecociencia in collaboration with the WWF (Identificacion y evaluacion de algunos remanentes sobresalientes d bosques humed en el occidente del Ecuador, Nov. 1989), in which seven areas of humid forest were selected for study, including the Mache-Chindul. The region, however, was not visited due to access dificulties, and flights over the region proved unhelpful because of cloud cover. They estimated that only 3000 hectares of forest remained.Current State of Forest
In recognition of the importance of the region, 5000 hectares in the norern area (Cube sector) was declared Patrimonio Forestal in 1989 and given the status of Bosque Protector. This comprises two blocks of land 4540 hectare at the headwater of the Rio Cube and a 385ha parcel around the Laguna. Very little of this land, however, is primary forest, and there has been no effective control over colonization. The road which is being built to link Quininde to Muisne can only encourage deforestation.Maps
Details of maps available included here in original report.Air photographs
Details of aerial photographs of the area included here in original report.Summary of itinery
The survey started in the sector of Guacucal in the soithern oart of the region. About 15 years ago the area was forested but most of the land has been cleared. There are still patches of forest on the ridges to the south.From there we headed northwest, crossed the Rio Bordonoes, and climbed the forested ridge on the far side of the river. This ridge, which is essentially a continuation of the Filo Toquillal to the west, is precipitous and still forested in this area. We followed the ridge northwards. Although the slopes were heavily forested, there are occasional clearings along the ridge itself.
We descended into the headwaters of the Rio Imbach, which has scattered farmsteads along the valley bottom. Near the junction with the Rio Dogola we headed downstream. The Dogola is the major river of the region and its valley is deeply incised. All but the most precipitous slopes have scattered clearings. The land between the southern flowing Dogola and the Santima sector we were told was untouched forest.
It was not, as we had hoped, feasible to visit the Santima sector. An attempt was made to approach it from Quinende, by motor transport to Herrera, then on foot to La Y, but the lack of availability of mules at Santa Isabel made continuing unfeasible. We were anle to confirm the existence of a new road following the east-west watershed, with scattered settlements along its length. Forest still stands on both sides of the road but that to the northwest was said to be less extensive. (Equafor note - this is the sector which now contains the Jatun Sacha Bilsa Reserve. Santa Isabel is the nearest settlement to the reserve. For a more recent description of the area click here).
Results
Introduction
Ecuador, showing the region under investigation,
marked here as Bilsa.
Chindul-Mache region,
showing major rivers and the area under investigation.
The Mache-Chidul Mountains,
showing the route taken during the investigation
and regions of intact forest.
The result of the survey are shown in map form, see above. This information is based on personal observation and on information provided by local people. In cases where contradictory information was given, personal judgement has been exercised based upon such matters as whether the informant was speaking from personal experience, and the date of the informant's information.
As well as general enquiries directed at individuals encountered, a more detailed questionaire was completed for nine landowners concerning their property, means of livelihood and attitude to the forest. Essentially the answers given were very similar, and it is felt that generalizations about the people of the region are permitted, although admittedly the sample is a small one.
Extent of Forest
Alarm expressed at the rapid disappearance of the forest from this region is entirely justified. Although patches of forest remain on all the higher ridges, there are only two relatively extensive blocks of primary forest in the area.The southern block of forest is defined by the lower land of the Rio Bordones (S & SE), the Rio Pavon (to the west), and La Abunacia to the north east. Here, perhaps 30 sq km remains, confined to the highland in a narrownorth south swathe. Essentially this ridge divides the eastward and westward flowing river systems. Even within this tract of forest there are occasional small farmsteads, while the Rio Imbache is a settled valley in the nrthern part of this forest.
Separating the Chindul from the Mache range is the narrow valley of the Rio Dogola, which has farmsteads scattered along its length, thus the forests of the two ranges are no longer contiguous.
The northern area of forest is defined by the Rio Dogola to the south and west, the Laguna to Dogal road to the north, and the sector of Santima to the east. It comprises an area of about 45 sq km. Settlement is encroaching from all directions, but all informants agreed that there were no settlements in the core of the region.
There was also said to be forest between the upper Dogola and Tigua rivewrs, but it was impossible to verify this in the field, nor to judge how intact the forest might be. An agricultural co-operative, El Carmen, is known to be within or close to this zone. There is likely to be pachy settlement within relatively undisturbed forest covering an area of about 25 sq km.
Similarly, to the north, between the headwaters of the rivers Cube and Viche, there are still areas of forest. Informants suggested that this area was not as extensive as that to the south, probably covering no more than 20 sq km.
The situation regarding the Aguacatal valley is uncertain. Informants indicated that it was unoccupied, but it appears to be separated from the main block of forest by a path, and is likely to be intruded upon soon, if not already. It is unlikely to contain more than 10 sq km of forest.
In other sectors, such as Tigua, Pavon, La Abundancia, and Bordones, there are patches of forest remaining, but they are so riddled with farmsteads that it is impossible to give an approximation of their extent.
Legal Status
The legal status of the land in the region could not be investigated in detail. It appears that most, if not all of the land is individually owned, if not actively settled. However, contradictory statements were given by different informants, perhaps due to the contraversial nature of the land claims process.Rate of Colonization
All the informants in the sector under investigation (Bordones, Imbache, Dogola, and Cube) had arrived within the last ten years. Of the nine landowners who answered the qestionaires, 3 had arrived in 1981, 2 in 1982, and one in each of 1983, 88, 89, and 90.All but two had claimed unoccupied land and had cleared it from irgin forest. Of the two who had not, one was a recent arrival and the other lived close to La Y, away from the main forest area.
This pattern of colonization supports the impression gained fro air-photographs; that the major impact of colonization has been within the last ten years. The rae of deforestation cannot be reliably estimated without new air-photographic evidence, but it seems likely that approaching 50% of the forest shown on latest available photographs (1977 & 1983) is already gone. This is not to say that deforestation has been uniform over the region. The more favourable lands such as Guacucal, La Abundancia, and the upper Rio Mache will have been more thoroughly cleared.
It is unlikely that the rate of colonization will slow. All the informants had the intention of clearing the remaining forest from thewir land and saw no purpose in keeping it.
Land Use
All the informants were small farmers with between 5 and 250 hectares of land (Average 80) used for growing a variety of crops, both for subsistence and for cash. Bananas, maize, rice, cocoa, coffee, yuca, oranges and mandarines were the main crops mentioned, but this list is not exhaustive. Most also had some pasture for cattle and horses, but catle farming was not a major land use. Pigs and chickens were everywhere kept and were the main source of meat. Coffee was the major cash crop. The cocoa crop appeared everywhere to be blighted. All had varying amounts of forest on their land which they were intending to clear.Use of the Forest
None of the informants could see any use for the forest as it was. The utilization of the forest for wood, wild crops, medicine plants and hunting was minimal.Timber: The forest contained a number of good timber trees. Due to the lack of transport facilities and markets, none was sold. What was not taken for personal use after felling was left to rot.
Forest Crops: Only two informants consumed wild fruit, and even they did not consider the resource to be important. The chonta palm fruit, chontilla, chapil, caimistro were mentioned.
Medicine Plants: The same two informants that atr fruit also used wild plants for medicinal purposes. The Saragosa vine was used for malaria and flu. Elsewhere, the same plant is used for stomach complaints and diabetes. Cascarilla was also used for malaria, and the sap of the Moral Fino was said to cure toothache.
Hunting: Most informants hunted from time to time, but it was not considered an important source of food. The most popular game were birds. Agouti and rabbit were also popular. Peccary and deer were also hunted but appeared to be relatively rare.
Vegetation and Wildlife
An inventory of the natural vegetation and wildlife is not within the scope of this report.Conclusion
The survey has suggested that no more than 140 sq km of primary forest now exists in the Mache-Chindul region. The tru figure is likely to be less, perhaps around 80-90 sq km, much of which, moreover, has been penetrated by small-farmers to some degree. The largest single block of primary forest only covers 15 sq km.These figures are slightly high than other recent estimates. The CIDE report estimated 90 sq km of wet forest survives in the whole of western Ecuador. Presumably they would not classify all of the forest in the survey region as beibg of that type, but clearly a large proportion of that forest lies in this region. The Ecociencia report estimated 30 sq km. of humid forest here, but this seems to be an underestimate, probably due to their reliance on information from outside the core of the region.
According to CIDE, the country as a whole is being deforested at a rate of 2.3% per annum. This seems a conservative estimate for the survey region. Over the last ten years homesteaders have settled in even quite disadvantageous terrain, attracted by unoccupied lands, and the region has been deforested by something approaching 50%. The main blocks remaining are the least attractive for settlement, but there is no doubt that they will soon be cleared for small scale agriculture unless immediate measures are taken to prevent it. They are likely to be effectively penetrated within the next couple of years.
The local people find little use for the forest. Even as a source of timber it is only used for personal house and fence construction, while the rest is wasted. The attitude of the colonizers reflect the fact that they are not native forest dwellers but come from various parts of the country to pursue the only form of livelihood with which they are familiar.
The forest which remains appears to be rich in wildlife, including large predators such as jaguar and puma. The amount of forest required to support a population of these animals is not known, but it seems likely that the largest remaining blocks would be sufficient if they could be conserved. If so, this is probably the only place in the coastal hills where this could be achieved.
Recommendations
Given that this type of humid forest is so scarce and that it is disappearing at a rapid rate, the case for immediate active measures for its conservation is very strong. At a minimum it is suggested that a wide-ranging study be made of the flora and fauna of the region, simply to find out what is there.Other priorities could include:
- The establishment of a core area of conservation in the northern region, where intact primary forest still remains. The size of this area would depend upon the area required to maintain sustainable populations of the indigenous flora and fauna. Presumably it should not be much smaller than the current area of intact forest.
- The establishment of peripheral areas of conservation and agroforestal development, focusing on alternatives to wholesale destruction of the forest.
In view of the relative economic backwardness of the region and the low standard of living of most of its inhabitants, any conservation initiative should be integrated into a strategy for the overall economic development of the region. Forest conservation will be more successful if it can be shown to bring economic benefit.
Roads being built in the Dogola and Cube sectors will accelerate the destruction of the forest. However, it is clear that the destruction will proceed whether or not the roads are built. Furthermore, it appears unlikely that any effective conservation initiatices can be realized without easier access to the region. For these reasons it is suggested that centres of environmental protection should be closely co-ordinated with road building.
It can be added that the lack of adequate transport facilities to enable the marketing of produce is one of the major factors depressing the standard of living in the area.
The practical difficulties of establishing an effective policy for forest conservation are enormous. The ineffectiveness of the Bosque Protector status in the Cube sector in preventing road-building and colonization highlights the inadequacy of the scheme. It is worth asking whether the Bosque Protector designation would offer sufficient protection even were it it properly implemented. According the the CIDE report, the designation hhas nothing to do with protecting primary forest and is therefore inadequate for thebpurpose.
The fact that most, if not all, the land is individually owned does not appear to present insuperable problems to a conservation strategy since, as an option, land can simply be purchased from its owner. Forested land, here, is relatively cheap, a reflection of its unattractiveness to farmers.
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